Givenchy Spring 2012 Prints of Paradise

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The last show that caught my eye from this Men's Spring/Summer 2012 Paris/Milan season is Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci stepped into the light at Givenchy for Spring 2012 and left all that Goth baggage behind. The technicolor bird of paradise prints were explosive. The kaleidoscopic mirror image prints made these tropical flowers aggressively modern--no shrinking violets here. The new neutral, almost military green looked fresh in a sharp suit with sandals.

Comme des Garçons Spring 2012 Devilish Dandies

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I love a statement jacket and there were so many to choose from at Comme des Garçons Spring 2012. The clever Perfecto blazer hybrid. The first toggle coat I've ever considered. The optic black and white jackets. The artfully dotted trench coat. Even a princely pink pea coat. This is exactly the kind of innovation I like to see in Paris, a fresh viewpoint without trying to reinvent the wheel. Rei Kawakubo continues to keep things rebellious and youthful, but this Spring 2012 we see a revival of Edwardian elegance and thankfully no skulls.

Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Kim Jones Debut

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Kim Jones, the new artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton has redefined the Vuitton man. What Mr. Jones has done with his first show is to remake the Vuitton man into someone younger, more modern and more at ease than his predecessor--like the previous Vuitton man's rakish younger brother (Prince Harry anyone?). The youthful spirit was instep with the house's ever present travel theme, this time taking us on a hike through Kenya in a brilliant tableau of Massai inspired textiles, showcasing the scarf of the season. There was even a tuxedo with shorts and sandals.

Gucci Spring 2012 Tux Redux

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In a bravo finale, Gucci Spring 2012 re-invented the tuxedo with mixed separates in glamorous fabrics from plaid to lamé in a strict palette of black and white. A shimmering evening cardigan was featured as an elegant alternative to the classic tux jacket. The silhouette was very narrow: shoulders tight, armholes high, waists nipped and the skinniest pants ruled, right down to the inspired idea of formal riding pants. Black patent Gucci loafers sans socks made it effortless.

Burberry Prorsum Spring 2012 Ethnic Verve

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Apparently ikat is no longer the exclusive domain of Dries Van Noten. The contemporary use of ethnic prints, bold color and artful embroidery resulted in a playfully naive show for Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum for Spring 2012. Raffia trimmed parkas, embroidered sweaters, and yes, ikat pants were all stand outs. Statement shoes arrive at Burberry Prorsum: woven leather cork soled kilties and raffia apron toes will give Prada a run for their money this season.

Prada Spring 2012 Gutsy Golf

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Yes, a quirky homage to American golf was where Miuccia Prada's head was for Spring 2012. Retro 60s golfing attire (need a double breasted jacket!) clashed with Lily Pulitzer prints (loved the pants!) and studded cowboy shirts, even a vintage 50s tablecloth print made the cut in a boxy shirt. The odd palette of off-pastels took everything into the 21st century. In the end, once again, the shoe of the season: the Prada Kiltie. With or without studs?