Showing posts with label News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label News. Show all posts

Uniqlo +J Spring/Summer Men 2010







images: uniqlo


Hot new pics of the Uniqlo +J Spring/Summer 2010 Men's collection. The clean architectural lines that have become synonymous with Jil Sander continue with Spring/Summer 2010. Finally, the perfect khaki suit at a reasonable price? There will be 60 fresh pieces in the Men's collection. I love the new model and his haircut. More info soon.

US release date January 14, 2010.

Holiday Shoppers More Welcome Than Ever



Eric Wilson of The New York Times brings us the new reality on Luxury shopping in the recession. Customer service and attitudes are improving from Macy's to Bergdorf Goodman to Hermès. Despite the fact that I was interviewed for this piece and did not make the final cut, it is a must read.

Full NY Times article here.

Martin Margiela . . . gone.



After months of rumors, it has finally been confirmed that Martin Margiela, creative director of the eponymous house has left. He will not be replaced. The current design team of 28 people amassed over the past 20 years will continue to produce the collections. Diesel has controlled the fashion label for the past seven years and whether or not the brand will remain relevant and influential without the elusive Mr. Margiela remains to be seen.

Full NY Times coverage of the International Herald Tribune story by Suzy Menkes here.

Hermès: Keeper Of The Faith



From an interview with The Rake, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermès and sixth generation member of the family run empire discusses the Hermès philosophy in the context of our modern times.

"We live in a paradox today. Humanity has never produced so many objects as it does now, yet we have never felt more emotionally bereft. I think Hermès goes against the grain; we want to make strong products and we want to imbue these objects with a soul that gives them permanence. At Hermès, the object is nourished by the soul and hand of the craftsman, but the secret to its beauty is inscribed by use."

The full article and more photographs here.

Tom Ford Loves . . .


My partner Eric came across this quote and he sent it to me knowing that I would appreciate it and share it with you. The point: having depth and being spiritual is not at odds with loving fashion and Luxury goods.

From the New York Post:

Tom Ford struggled with depression after he left Gucci. Ford, creative director of the fashion house for 10 years until 2004 told W: "I started to sink emotionally, spiritually. I became a bit lost. It forced me to really think: Well, what am I, who am I, what am I about? It took me a bit of time to figure that out." Adding, "I am a very spiritual person now."

Ford said he hadn't changed completely:
"Fashion is one way in which we hold ourselves together. Just because I've become spiritual doesn't mean I can't love crocodile."

Original post here.


Cartier Les Heures De Parfum


image: cartier




Following in the footsteps of Chanel Les Exclusifs, Giorgio Armani Armani Privé and Hermès Hermèssences, Maison Cartier has just launched the first five of a projected thirteen exclusive niche fragrances conceived by in-house nose Mathilde Laurent. Based loosely on the concept of the hours of the day, the fragrances are exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue and Cartier Boutiques.

When I visited Cartier this week to preview the collection, I was astounded by the exclusive merchandising materials: the beautiful paper notebook, the exquisite sample boxes and generous vials. Even the test strip is gorgeous. Cartier has spared no expense on these elegant fragrances. The heavy deco inspired glass bottles derive from a vase in the Cartier archives with boxes nearly as luxurious as the ones for their legendary jewels.

I L'Heure Promise: "between naivety and self-confidence, with notes of petitgrain, iris, sandalwood. The hour of angels, because in reality, this is the scent of an angel."

VI L'Heure Brillante: "full of notes of lemon and gin and shot through with a trace of aldehydes. The neon hour, the electric hour, who thrills and exalts all those whom it engulfs."

X L'Heure Folle: "the vibrating moment of consuming nature, it crisps like young berries of blackcurrant, redcurrant and blueberry. Nature as I love it, wild, bucolic, frenzied, rustling and budding as fruits which will never ripen." (exclusively at Saks)

XII L'Heure Mystérieuse: "sensual and mystic, with a backdrop of incense, jasmine and patchouli. An invitation to secrets, a scent to be whispered."

XII La Treizième Heure: "glides sensual and mesmerising on the skin, with intoxicating hints of narcissus, maté, and leather. By smoke, I mean perfume. Smoke like a fascination, to be worn like a trap with intent."

credit: Cartier

LVMH takes 14.2 % stake in Hermès


Hermès Spring 2011
image: style.com


Saturday, October 23: LVMH, the world's largest maker of Luxury goods has announced that it will purchase shares equivalent to a 14.2% stake in Hermès. After conversion of derivatives, LVMH will hold a total of 17.1% of Hermès. It is not clear exactly how LVMH procured such a large stock holding in Hermès, but there is speculation that it could have been purchased directly from an Hermès family member or simply on the open market.

The announcement from LVMH:

“The objective of LVMH is to be a long-term shareholder of Hermès and to contribute to the preservation of the family and French attributes which are at the heart of the global success of this iconic brand." “LVMH fully supports the strategy implemented by the founding family and the management team.”

source: reuters.com

Though this "hands off" statement is quite clear, I am certain that over time LVMH will exert influence over the continuing expansion of the Hermès brand. What does that mean for the future of Hermès? I fear that this true Luxury brand will join the mass Luxury fray. Does the Hermès client care? I think so.

Maison Ladurée New York



For its first venture in the United States, Maison Ladurée (founded in 1862) has chosen 864 Madison Avenue in New York City to house its myriad sweets, teas and signature macarons. Ladurée is credited with inventing the modern macaron some 60 years ago when they had the inspiration to sandwich two of the classic almond cookies with a delicious filling. My favorites are Pistache and Citron. Soho store to follow in Spring 2012.

Asian Americans Sweep CFDA



In his front page story for The New York Times, writer Eric Wilson expands on the cultural impact of Asian Americans in fashion. For the first time ever, the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded all three top honors to Asian American Designers: Jason Wu, Richard Chai and Alexander Wang.

Read the full story here.

Marc Jacobs In Talks To Succeed John Galliano at Dior



image: wwd.com





WWD reports that Marc Jacobs is in serious talks to take over the helm at Christian Dior, a position open since John Galliano was fired for his drunken anti-semetic rant earlier this year. Rumor has it that the Dior position was offered to Azzedine Alaïa, but he declined, refusing to close his own house to take the job. The vacuum at Louis Vuitton would potentially be filled by Phoebe Philo, leaving an opening at minimalist chic brand Céline. Other players include Alber Elbaz at Lanvin and Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy. It will be exciting to see where the cards will fall in this luxury shuffle at LVMH.

Tommy Hilfiger and Peter Som and Simon Spurr


image: wsj.com


In the past two years, Tommy Hilfiger has tapped the talents of Peter Som and Simon Spurr to update his women's and men's collections respectively. This unusually public relationship has given the brand a younger appeal and more exposure.

Full WSJ article here.

credit: Wall Street Journal

New Chapter for Michael Bastian



New York based designer Michael Bastian has amicably split with his long time licensee Brunello Cucinelli. This new chapter for Michael Bastian will see new production partners that will allow him to reduce prices and grow his brand even further. This autonomy is related to his successful partnership, Gant by Michael Bastian, which has provided a steady income stream to support his new venture. Unfortunately for fans, in order to move forward, Michael Bastian will have to sit out a Fall 2011 collection. Your patience will be rewarded come Spring 2012, as I have always believed that the only thing holding Michael Bastian back is that prices are slightly too high.

source: WWD

Hermès Sells Stake In Jean Paul Gaultier To Puig


image: luxist.com


Barcelona based Puig has acquired a 60% stake in the Jean Paul Gaultier brand, 45% from former holder Hermès and an additional 15% from Mr. Gaultier himself. Puig has been a leader in the prestige fragrance market with the Comme des Garçons and Prada fragrance licenses. Puig also holds interests in Nina Ricci and Carolina Herrera.

We can look forward to an expansion of the existing and extremely successful fragrance brand of Jean Paul Gaultier with hopes that his new partner will continue to support his creativity in both his Haute Couture and RTW labels.

The move to sell its interest in Jean Paul Gaultier by Hermès undoubtedly comes at a time when Hermès is focusing its efforts to fight the aggressive (and quite controversial) acquisition of over 20% of Hermès shares by Bernard Arnault of LVMH.

source: NY Times

Uniqlo Fifth Avenue



Midtown Manhattanites and tourists, your wish has been granted. Uniqlo, the dominating force in SoHo retail will be taking over the space formerly occupied by Brooks Brothers at 666 Fifth Avenue, corner of 53rd Street. The speculated annual rent for this 70,000 square feet space is $30,000,000. It is time for the rest of Manhattan to discover this unique retailer, with its effortless style, amazing prices and superb quality. Fifth Avenue is shaping up to be quite the mix of Luxury and fast fashion retailers. Can they peacefully coexist?

Full story here.

Source: Cranes

Mr. Nils by Lars Nilsson



Lars Nilsson has worked for some of the best names in the business: Ralph Lauren, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferre and Bill Blass. Now the time has come for him to put his own name on the label. Mr. Nils Fall 2010 will debut in stores July 2010, and has been picked up by some of the most influential stores in the world: Project No. 8b, the men’s store on Orchard Street in New York, Colette in Paris, Dover Street Market in London and United Arrows in Tokyo.

Read the full story by Eric Wilson of the New York Times here.

source: Eric Wilson, New York Times

Alexander Wang Soho Store Now Open


image: racked.com


Last week, Alexander Wang triumphantly opened his first NY store in the former Yohji Yamamoto space in Soho at 103 Grand Street.

Raymond Hau Exotics


Natural Ring Lizard iPad Case $590



Natural Python iPad case $440



Blue Crocodile iPad case $2690



American Alligator Tote $5425


Los Angeles based designer Raymond Hau has launched a beautiful new collection of exotic bags and accessories. Each bag is made to order and takes 2-3 weeks to complete. Featuring American Alligator, Ring Lizard, Ostrich and Python, the bags are simple and elegant, focusing on the rare materials. The iPad case is the epitome of Luxury and can double as a clutch/small portfolio. Special requests and customization is available at Raymond Hau.

For more information and to order click here.

Prada Stomps Out Of Barneys NY


Jessica Stam on the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 Runway
image: style.com


As reported by Cathy Horyn of the New York Times, Mark Lee, the new chief executive of Barneys New York confirmed that Barneys NY will no longer carry Prada. Well, there will be Prada shoes, but no ready to wear or handbags. Prada wanted a leased concession in the store and Barneys was not interested.

This is an interesting turn of events for both companies as I believe their long relationship has been mutually beneficial. I am not happy about the decision as I felt that Barneys always did an excellent job buying Prada Men's collection, always mixing the best runway pieces with more wearable classics. However, I understand that Barneys NY did not want to lose creative control over their shopping environment and devolve into a mall.

Read Cathy Horyn's full story here.

Uniqlo +J Spring/Summer Women 2010




images: uniqlo


The first pics of the upcoming Uniqlo +J Women's Spring/Summer 2010 collection. The light clean aesthetic remains true to Jil Sander's vision. Haven't you been waiting for the perfect white blazer? More info soon.

US release date January 14, 2010.
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